Darryl's 1966 Porsche 912

MARCH 2007 PROJECT JOURNAL ENTRIES (IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER)

Entry: 3/5/07 - Today the front bumper came back off and I stripped the thin coat of cheapo autoparts store primer I applied back when I sandblasted it last summer to keep it from flash rusting. A thorough wash with scalding hot water, Ajax dish soap and a scrub brush to remove any traces of paint stripper was followed by a spray down with Eastwood Company's Metal Wash to keep the steel from flash rusting. I'll be welding up all the license plate holes once it has dried thoroughly and start with the filling and block sanding on that ugly weld seam down the middle. I also removed the left rear wheel and began the process of "faux factory undercoating" on that wheelwell and lockpost area like I did to the right side a couple months back. You'll notice a little investment in the future sitting on the box in the lower right corner of the following photo, a complete fuel injection system off a 1983 3.0 liter engine. This is the set-up I am currently running on the 3.0 liter engine in my 1974 911 and it's a good thing to have a spare WUR (warm up regulator), fuel distributor and airbox as these parts are NLA (no longer available) new from any parts suppliers and rebuilt ones require a core exchange and are massively expensive. I got the entire system, including intake runners and fuel injectors for $375 off a running engine which was converted to PMO carburetors, through an ad on the Pelican Parts 911 Used Parts For Sale & Wanted BBS.

Entry: 3/6/07 - I didn't have time to work on the 912 today but a couple items did arrive on the UPS truck today. The first thing was a relic from the '70s, a vintage hood bra, still in perfect condition, custom tailored to fit my '66 with no fog light or license plate holes opened-up! I have a hood bra for all my Porsches and if removed frequently and kept clean on the back side so no moisture or abrasive road dust can form, they keep the paint chip-free. I only put them on when I'm going to be driving at highway speed due to all the dump trucks dropping gravel on the roads and kicking it up.

The other shipment that arrived was half of my closed-cell neoprene foam order from McMaster-Carr. I ordered ½", 3/8" and 1/8" thick by 42" x 72" pads to make the engine compartment sound-proofing pads, passenger compartment floor sound-proofing pads, and dashboard / door panel padding (respectively). Closed-cell is the ticket, you can spray adhesive on it and press it into place without the glue soaking into it and distorting the surface like open cell foam will do. This foam is rated to withstand temperatures to 210°F, is self-extinguishing when a flame source is removed, and withstands oil and gasoline exposure without breaking down. Sounds like the perfect stuff for lining an engine compartment to me! Closed-cell also doesn't absorb water (or any liquid) so it sounds like the perfect thing to glue to the passenger compartment floorpans and door panels! The ½", 3/8" and 1/8" thick by 42" x 72" pads cost roughly $90, $70 and $30 respectively and are listed as Neoprene/EDPM/SBR Foam Rubber on the website.

Entry: 3/7/07 - I got a good start on the front bumper today, beginning with welding-up the 6 front license plate mounting holes which were exposed by sand blasting the BONDO off the bumper last summer. Once the holes were filled and the excess weld bead dressed with my 4½" angle grinder, I got out the stud welder and attacked the deep dents that had been filled with BONDO by the previous repairman. Using the pop-rivet gun type puller, I was able to get all the dents slightly higher than the surrounding surface and then leveled-out with hammer and dolly.

I did a bit more straightening work over the entire top edge and declared it ready for filler. I swapped the grinding disc for a 50-grit sanding disc on my 4½" angle grinder and "scuffed" the surface in preparation for the filler. I started applying Evercoat Rage Xtreme lightweight filler on the top, working outward from the center and have two coats applied and blocked sanded out while it was still setting-up using the 80-grit paper on the long board. Tomorrow I continue with filling and work my way across the top and then down the front center, hopefully finishing with filler and starting with glazing putty. I really am starting to see the light at the end of tunnel with the bodywork phase and then starting the second pass over the entire body with glazing putty and block sanding to fix the defects I couldn't see before priming. It is getting close to making another visit to the painter and have a detailed discussion on how I should proceed with filler primer work.

Entry: 3/8/07 - Today's work began with welding up a bolt hole in the top right end of the bumper that must have been added to snug it up to the fender of the car it came off of. Once the MIG welder was put away, I turned my attention to applying the remaining Evercoat Rage Xtreme lightweight filler on the center seam and on all the previously damaged and deeply pitted areas of the bumper and then block sanding it out. One thing that is obvious from where the majority of the filler went is the left half of the bumper, that was made out of two "good" halves, was much more "used" than the right half. No matter, filler and block sanding have it all looking smooth and ready for glazing putty, block sanding and primer. I have a feeling primer is going to expose a lot more shaping work on that center bumper section with all its compound curves but if that's what it will take to get it perfect, so be it.

Entry: 3/10/07 - After I finished filling and sanding work on the 8th, I primed the section of the bumper that I was having trouble seeing the curves on and then let it dry a couple days so the primer would cure a bit. Today I started work by adding a longer "nose" to my 3M seam sealer caulk gun with some ¼ " steel tubing so I could reach way back inside the rear wheelhouse and seal the point where the rockerpanel and quarter panel pressings meet. As you can see in the following photo, my "Pinocchio" caulk gun and the load of caulk delivered at the joint between the two panels, mission accomplished. Once that caulk sets-up, I'll finish up with my "faux factory undercoating" work and give it a thick coat of Wurth high-build underseal.

The area covered by the license plate on that "two-to-make-one" bumper showed a low spot once it was primed. I used a piece of thin brass welding rod taped to the curve of the bumper to illuminate the area needing more filler. As you can see from the shadow in the following photo, there was quite a bit of filler required to make it look right.

This was really one of the most challenging filler and block sanding jobs I've had to do and after working it with two more separate applications of Evercoat Rage Xtreme lightweight filler and then a final application of Evercoat Polyester Glazing Putty and block sanding that out, I decided that I needed to prime it to really see how close it is. A couple thick coats of Spies Hecker Priomat Primer 3255 self-etching primer and I can still see a little more shaping required but it really is quite close, to the point where I think it's just a matter of more sanding not adding more filler. I'll let the primer cure a couple days and then revisit it, some of the problem may be the two sides are not exactly the same but it is on the underside and very close to the ground so it won't be noticed anyway. Test fitting the bumperettes and the deco strip will help me decide how much more attention this area requires.

Entry: 3/12/07 -Task for the day was applying the "faux factory undercoating" to the back side of the left lockpost. I've started using most of my hand to texture instead of just one finger, which turns out about the same but takes much less time. I use carburetor cleaner to remove the 3M seam sealer from my fingers, which isn't probably the brightest idea if it is ever determined to cause cancer!

Entry: 3/13/07 - Today was spent scraping out all the loose undercoating from the area under the rear quarter window trim on the left rear wheelwell. What a thankless job which requires some bending and twisting of my shoulders and neck that are sure to require a few ibuprofen if I plan to get out of bed tomorrow! This side was not as rusted as the passenger side but there was quite a large section of loose undercoating that came off to reveal a nice moisture-proof layer of material still sticking to the metal under it. After scraping and wire brushing everywhere I found loose undercoating, I wiped the area down with carburetor cleaner and then brushed on a coat of SEM Rust Seal to treat the rusty areas. The blue dots are where masking tape is covering the rear quarter window trim mounting holes and the engine cover release cable tube running across the following photo.

I also cleaned and wire brushed all the surface rust I could find in the cavity above the left rear tail light bucket. Everything looks very well preserved but I gave the surface rust a coat of SEM Rust Seal where I found it back there as well. When the rust sealant dries, I'll finish with the "faux factory undercoating" work with the 3M seam sealer.

Entry: 3/14/07 - Late last evening, I applied a second coat of SEM Rust Seal to the areas still showing rust color where the first coat had dried. This morning everything was ready for the application of 3M seam sealing caulk phase of my "faux factory undercoating" process. Other than being a very uncomfortable twist of my neck and shoulders to reach in and dab with my fingertip, application went pretty easy. Patches to the area under the front part of the rear quarter window trim and the top portion of the lock post with the engine lid release cable is visible in the following photo:

The only area presenting any challenge was filling the area sealing the body "cavity opening" behind the rear quarter window. The factory stuffed tar soaked open cell foam rubber in this area to close it off from water and dirt thrown up by the tire. When I was pulling away the loose undercoating, I had removed a pretty big chunk of this foam, leaving a large hole through which water could enter the body cavity. To fix it, I turned to my trusty 3M strip caulk to bridge the opening by rolling a large "cigar-sized" wad and stuffed / formed it into the opening using a length of wooden dowel. An ample coat of 3M seam sealing caulk to create a hard crust over it and it looks like nothing was ever removed, better yet it's a moisture-proof barrier. I've sat a 500-watt halogen work lamp under it to accelerate the drying and shrinkage of the seam sealer and then I'll give it a good heavy coat of Wurth high-build underseal once it's dry. I need to go back to the right side and perform this same task once I replenish my 3M strip caulk supply!

Entry: 3/15/07 - All the 3M seam sealing caulk was nice and hard from drying under heat overnight so today the Wurth high-build underseal was sprayed over the entire wheelwell to blend the original and patch undercoating. As you can see in the following photo, all the weld seams on the lower half of the lockpost and lower quarter panel are pretty much blended into the texturing of the "faux factory undercoating" and doesn't draw any unusual attention to that area.

The extensive patching of the original undercoating under the rear quarter window trim on the inside of the wheelwell is also well blended into the original and pretty much undetectable. The fumes from the Wurth underseal are extremely toxic so I'll let everything sit for at least 24 hours before going back into the shop. I stopped by the autobody supply store to replenish my 3M strip caulk and 3M seam sealing caulk inventory so I can finish the rear tail light bucket area on the other side. The last step will be the "faux factory undercoating" of the entire floorpan... YIKES! Now that's going to be a big job but better to do before paint than after as the Wurth underseal tends to throw globs randomly and I'd hate to hit fresh paint with any.

Entry: 3/16/07 - Once the toxic fumes from the Wurth high-build underseal cleared out of the garage, I could finally put the wheel back on and remove the jacks holding left rear corner of the car up. Now I could finally perform what might possibly be the last test fit of the front bumper, with the deco strip and bumperettes installed, to make sure everything lines-up perfectly. The deco strip is the original which I've stripped the anodized coating off of using EZ-Off oven cleaner in preparation for polishing so it looks a bit chalky white. The bumperettes fit the contour of the bumper perfectly, even before the plastic bead is glued into place between the chrome and paint contact edge. With the turnsignals and headlights mounted, everything looks SWEET! I had to break out the new Porsche hood crest just to put the icing on the cake!

I'm very happy with how crisp and straight everything looks from all angles. There are a couple fine adjustments that I'll make when I'm mounting the bumper permenantly but for a test fit, I'm almost giddy with pride about how my year of hard work is turning out!

Ok, I can't help myself, time to Photoshop that last photo... dial up the hue of "Bahama Yellow" instead of red oxide primer just to picture it all done. Oh if it were only that easy to paint a car!

I think I finally figured out why Bahama Yellow makes me drool... suffice to say my college and bachelor days were very good for Kraft Foods, Inc. shareholders!

The UPS truck dropped my new German square-weave 3-piece trunk carpet set off today! I bought this from eBay seller "cmartinperez" for $265, which was slightly cheaper than the one offered by Autos International for $279 as I figured they were probably from the same place and I like seeing a photograph of the actual item. Plus the feedback on other carpet sets purchased from this eBay seller were all glowing with praise. I'm very happy with the quality and the construction is exactly like the heavily worn originals that came in the car.

I did a side-by-side of the new and original driver's side carpet pieces and the square-weave carpet and edge binding is identical. There is a slight brown tone to the original, which might just be patina and dirt. I really can't wait until the day I get to glue the new ones in to cover all my detailing and repair work done to that front trunk area!

Entry: 3/18/07 - I figured today was a good time to finally remove the front brake calipers and prepare all four of them for delivery to the local vintage brake caliper rebuilding experts, Goldline Brakes of Seattle where they'll be disassembled for replating and reassembled with new hardware and pistons. All the brake pads and rotors, front and rear, look to be relatively new, just have sat unused too long to trust. Since I'm planning on converting the system to DOT5 silicone brake fluid, the entire system needs fresh seals and lines. I also decided to retain the original single circuit master cylinder and purchased a new one from Pelican Parts last week.

Once all my brake removal work was complete and the wheels back on the car, I raised it to the maximum height on the 4-post lift and began the "faux factory undercoating" treatment to the entire floorpan. I worked for about 2 hours and used about half a tube of 3M seam sealing caulk to get just short of what looks to be about a quarter complete. Fingertip dabbing of the seam sealer actually is quite relaxing and as long as I look back on what I've done and not forward on how much is left, progress seems to be going fast. Since my fingertip dabs will give the Wurth high-build underseal drops something to hang from, the effect should recreate the factory look perfectly.

Entry: 3/19/07 - Nothing glamourous to report today, an additional 3 hours of fingertip "dabbing" 3M seam sealer caulk has resulted in being just over half done. I am very pleased with the second layer of caulk over the weld seam joining the two pan halves resulted in an invisible seam... SWEET!

Entry: 3/20/07 - Only had 2½ hours to work on the "faux factory undercoating" today but got almost half of the remaining floorpan completed. I'd say another 3 hours work and it's ready for Wurth high-build underseal.

Entry: 3/21/07 - Today my goal was finishing the finger-tip dabbing phase of my "faux facttory undercoating" process, about ¼ of the floorpan, in 3 hours. I got out the two required tools; a caulkgun containing a tube of tan 3M 08300 Ultrapro sealant and my right index finger... the starting gun sounded...

... and I'm off! I'm just at 6'5" with my Chuck Taylor Converse hi-tops on and thank goodness for having the 4-post lift that allows me to stand straight without stooping and leaves room so my head doesn't touch the sticky caulk once it's applied to the floorpan! Notice the triple-grande Latte to keep my focus.

2 hours and 42 minutes later (actually closer to 10 hours and 3 tubes of 3M seam sealing caulk later) I'M DONE! Everything looks nice and consistent in thickness and random splatter pattern. I've ordered 2 more cans of aerosol Wurth high-build underseal from AutoGeek.net to go with the one I still have in my supply inventory. I figure 3 cans of of underseal will give me enough to cover everything with a nice thick coat and plenty of drips clinging to the dabs of 3M seam sealer. I'm convinced, I'm pretty obsessed with this thing turning out perfect to put 10 hours into this single task, but hey, strive for excellence and perfection may be the result! Once the car is back from the painter and all the Bahama Yellow overspray has cured, I'll give the bottom of the car between the pinch weld flanges a coat of satin greenish gray enamel custom mixed to match the original factory PVC undercoating color still visible in the steering / brake well at the front of the floorpan in the photo.

Here's a side-by-side comparison of the original PVC undercoating splatter pattern compared to the way the first step, finger "dabbed" 3M seam sealer looks. The Wurth high-build underseal will cling to the "dabs" and form droplets, emulating the original look very closely.

Entry: 3/23/07 -Now that the front wheelwell areas are essentially finished, the floorpan sealed from moisture and the brake caliper and backing plates removed, I can finally thoroughly degrease the front steering and suspension using my favorite purple cleaner and plenty of scalding hot water. Yesterday I scraped and wire brushed any surface rust I could find in the steering "tunnel" area and sealed it with SEM Rust Seal in preparation for water exposure today. As you can see in the following photo, everything really cleaned-up nice, especially the original greenish-gray undercoating.

There is a little surfact rust but still quite a bit of the original finish showing. The aluminum rack-and-pinion steering unit and gray rubber boots look practically new but the nomenclature plate on the device shows a 1965 manufacture date.

The back sides of the struts and brake mounting pads looks like only a little touch-up with gray paint will make them look great.

I'm planning on using a brush to hand paint these components in place. There isn't any reason to remove the front suspension at this point in the restoration with all the other tasks ahead of me. If and when I do need to replace the front strut inserts, I can blast and repaint the lower housing at that point after I've driven the car.

Entry: 3/24/07 - I wanted to get the front suspension and steering components prepped and painted today so I started by using the drill-mounted wire wheel to strip away all flaking paint and rust areas. It didn't take long to realize most of the surface irregularities were in the paint and not the metal so I turned to chemical stripping using my standard aircraft style paint stripper. Once I had applied two coats of stripper, using a wire brush between coats, I thoroughly cleaned the stripper residue from the surfaces using scalding hot water and Ajax dish soap and a stiff brush. I used compressed air to get all the water out of the recesses and then started brushing on a thick coat of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator to seal any remaining surface rust and stabilize it as the product is designed to do.

Once everything dried thoroughly, I gave the entire area a mist coat of clear Plasti-Cote high-temperature engine enamel like I did on the back suspension area just to dress it up a bit and put a shine on the matt-black Rust Encapsulator and look nearly identical to the original gloss black finish. I still need to do a little undercoat patching around the master cylinder area prior to doing the Wurth high-build underseal on the rest of the floorpan once the order from AutoGeek.net arrives on Wednesday. I'm quite happy with how the front suspension has turned out for just using a paint brush which saved tons of masking work!

Entry: 3/28/07 - The order containing 2 extra cans of Wurth high-build underseal arrived late this afternoon from AutoGeek.net so I immediately began the job of masking-off and protecting all the areas I didn't want stray globs of the undercoating to land. It took just over 2 full cans to cover the entire floorpan with a very thick coating. The vapors are extremely toxic and even with a charcoal filtered face mask found I really couldn't spend much time in the garage after spraying.

I couldn't wait until tomorrow so I opened the garage door, windows and placed a fan such that fresh air flushed out the fumes while I pulled the masking off. I am very pleased with how it turned out. The weld seams are fairly well covered by the 3M seam sealer but you can make out a slight bump where they run. Here is the view from the front of the car towards the rear:

Here is the view of the rear of the car towards the front. All my "faux factory undercoating" blends in with the original at both ends quite nicely. Other than spraying some paint to match the greenish/gray color of the original undercoating and some matt black Wurth SKS Stone Guard to the lower rockerpanels, both after the car returns from the paint shop, the bottom of the car is done!